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First, a practical note: nothing opens before 10 in Antwerp. Plan accordingly — not that it will necessarily be worth the wait. The permanent collection has been gutted to make room for the upcoming Antwerp 6 exhibition, leaving visitors to navigate a gloomy succession of display cases dedicated to the designers some of us might come specifically not to see. The sole Dries Van Noten piece surviving the cull: one menswear coat from 2018. One coat. I came to Antwerp for the botanical creations. I got a coat. I asked management whether I might access — even under NDA — just the DVN botanical pieces apparently held in storage somewhere on the premises. The answer was a polished, institutional no. Apparently signing a non-disclosure agreement to look at a jacket is not a courtesy they extend to the public. The saving grace — and I mean the only one: walk out, cross into the Modepaleis next door, and you'll immediately remember why fashion can still be a generous, human thing.